Nonstop Eurotrip
Nonstop Eurotrip
December 23, 2024
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Visiting Hong Kong for the first time is an exhilarating experience, and no trip would be complete without riding its famous double-decker trams, affectionately known as "Ding-Dings." These vibrant vehicles are cherished by locals and tourists alike, offering a unique way to soak in the city's majestic skyline and bustling streets from the comfort of the top deck.
Hong Kong Island is the vibrant core of this Special Administrative Region of China, a city of 7.4 million people and the world’s fourth most densely populated urban area. Its history as a British colony for over 100 years has left an indelible mark, creating an eclectic mix of European influences and Asian flair. It’s a sensory feast, with towering skyscrapers, crowded markets, and a palpable energy that draws me back time and again. Whether you're a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveller, there's always something new to discover here. I headed to Kennedy Town, the westernmost tram terminus, to begin my journey.
The Hong Kong Tramway spans 30 kilometres (19 miles) with six overlapping routes crisscrossing the island. Today, I’m travelling on the Happy Valley route from Kennedy Town to Murray Road, a 4.5 kilometre (2.8 mile) trip scheduled to take 28 minutes. Opened in 1904 during British rule, the tramway was electrified from the start, operating on 550v DC overhead trolley wires. Today, it boasts the world’s largest fleet of double-decker trams, with 167 vehicles, including a few tailored for tourists. Some of these trams date back to the 1950s but have been meticulously overhauled to meet modern standards while retaining their classic charm.
The tram’s interiors are delightfully retro, featuring wooden seats and benches arranged in various layouts. Some trams have been updated with moulded plastic seating, but comfort isn’t their strong suit – most journeys last only 10–15 minutes, so it’s manageable. Amenities are minimal: metal poles for standing passengers, fully opening windows for ventilation, and digital destination boards. There’s no air conditioning, Wi-Fi, or toilets, but the simplicity adds to their charm. Despite its age, the tramway remains integral to Hong Kong’s transport network, carrying over 180,000 passengers daily. It narrowly escaped being scrapped in favour of the faster MTR Island Line, thanks to fierce opposition from locals who couldn’t bear to part with their beloved Ding-Dings. The narrow-gauge tracks (1,067 mm) allow the trams to navigate tight turns on Hong Kong’s crowded streets, a testament to the ingenuity of their British designers.
Each tram is sponsored, resulting in a dazzling variety of liveries that brighten the streets. From bold advertisements to artistic designs, spotting the different trams becomes a fun pastime in itself. Riding the tram is incredibly affordable. A single fare costs just HK$3.00 (£0.29, €0.35, $0.40) for adults and children aged 12 and over, while seniors and younger children enjoy a 50% discount. Payment is made upon alighting, using an Octopus Travel Card or contactless bank card, and the fare is flat regardless of distance travelled.
As my tram left Kennedy Town, I was immediately struck by the nostalgic charm of the ride. The rattling of the tracks, the clanging of the tram bell, and the open windows created an atmosphere unlike any other mode of transport. However, this is Hong Kong, and traffic jams are inevitable. At the stop near the Hong Kong-Macau Ferry Terminal, our tram was caught in a bottleneck, delaying us by around ten minutes. But I didn’t mind – it’s all part of the experience. If speed was my priority, I’d have taken the MTR! Once back on the dedicated tram lanes, we made swift progress. The top deck offered unparalleled views of Hong Kong’s skyline, with its iconic skyscrapers towering against the (admittedly humid) breeze rushing through the windows.
Our journey ended at Murray Road, near one of Hong Kong’s most famous attractions: the Peak Tramway. This historic funicular railway climbs Victoria Peak, 400 metres (1,300 feet) above sea level. At the summit, you’ll find shopping, dining, and breath-taking panoramic views of the city. If you have the time, a visit to Victoria Peak is a must – it’s one of Hong Kong’s most iconic experiences.
Riding Hong Kong’s double-decker trams isn’t just transportation – it’s an unforgettable experience that immerses you in the city’s culture and history. Yes, it’s not the fastest way to get around, and the lack of air conditioning can be a challenge in the heat, but for just a few Hong Kong dollars, you’re treated to a journey through time and a unique perspective on one of the world’s most dynamic cities. If you’re visiting Hong Kong, riding the Ding-Dings is an absolute must. It’s cheap, nostalgic, and quintessentially Hong Kong. Have you experienced any memorable tramways during your travels? Let me know your favourites in the comments below and I’ll see you in the next adventure!
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